Keeping the Flame Alive at Barry’s Cafe

For someone who’s long carried a torch, Denise Doyle glides like a ballroom dancer in her white Keds. She swings through her restaurant’s kitchen, rings up a customer, and hugs a friend while sidestepping the pair of fire hydrants near the door. The hydrants, each weighing about as much as a baby elephant, are the heftiest of the firefighting memorabilia stuffed into Barry’s Cafe.

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